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Border Food: Why Indians Love This Slow-Cooked Cuisine | Financial News

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“Where the men are tough, but the lamb is tender.” This is what fans say about the food from Pakistan’s North-West Frontier Province (now Khyber Pakhtunkhwa). Large chunks of meat or vegetables are lightly marinated and slowly cooked in a tandoor at high temperatures. The use of spices is balanced to bring out the natural flavors of the ingredients.

“What sets it apart is its distinct cooking technique, characterised by minimal marinating and slow cooking at high temperatures, which brings out the inherent flavours of the ingredients,” says Zeeshan Ali, a Delhi-based food and hospitality consultant.

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“The judicious use of spices allows the meat to shine, without being overpowered by strong spices. This approach not only preserves the nutritional value of the dishes, but also makes them healthy and delicious.” Ali’s favourites from the Border food include Mutton Rezala, Dal Makhani, Raan and Alishan and Pathar kebabs.

Border cuisine is simple, uses fresh ingredients, and avoids heavy sauces. Dishes use yogurt as a marinade base, combined with spices such as cumin, coriander, and garam masala. The marinade infuses flavors and makes the meat tender and juicy.

The Ashok Hotel in Delhi recently hosted a Khyber Ki Peshkash food festival with the Kohat platter comprising Paneer Tikka, Tandoori Khumb and Subz e Seekh costing Rs 1,200. The Khyber platter of Fish Tikka, Murg Hazarvi Tikka and Chapli Kebab was served for Rs 1,700. The Raan Alishaan combo meal cost Rs 2,500.

Patthar Ka Kebab and Chapli Kebab may seem like simple dishes, but the technique and ingredients used to cook them “stand out,” says Sanjay, executive chef at The Ashok, who goes by one name.

“These dishes are not just about the flavors, they are about the experience. The hot stone and flat grill cooking methods add a unique element to the dish, making it an interactive experience for the diners. Apart from the cooking methods, what sets these dishes apart is the quality of the ingredients used,” he says.

Bukhara, ITC Maurya, Peshawri – ITC Sonar, Khyber, Zaffran, Dum Pukht, Indian Accent, Kebabs & Kurries and Gulati’s are some of the popular restaurants serving this cuisine.

“At Gulati’s, our best-selling dishes from the North West Frontier cuisine include our renowned Butter Chicken, Dal Makhani, Biryanis and our mouth-watering Kebabs. Over the years, we have seen a steady rise in the demand for Frontier food as more people look for authentic and healthy meals. To cater to contemporary tastes, we have introduced lighter and healthier options,” said Namit Gulati, owner of Gulati’s restaurants in Delhi and Gurgaon.

Sanjeev Kapoor, a chef, television host and entrepreneur, says his father was born in Peshawar on the Frontier. “So I have, in a sense, the right heritage to talk about the North-West Frontier. My first job was with the ITDC Ashok group of hotels. I was fortunate to be trained there in the food of the North-West Frontier. I think the influence of open spitfire cooking, cooking on charcoal, cooking on wood, meats cooked that way, whether it’s cooked on an open fire or cooked in a tandoor, I think that’s the real essence.”

“Today, like the spices, the way it is cooked is very different from what you would actually get there in that region. In fact, it is mainly boiled, non-spicy food that people eat there – meats and vegetables cooked together, it is a kind of stew, which is not spicy at all and bland. So that is largely the influence of the real North-West Frontier cuisine. In India, we popularised tandoori kebabs and that worked with the Indian spices.”

Kapoor spoke about Frontier’s two signature dishes: Hazarvi kebab and Banno kebab. Hazarvi kebab is made with cream and chicken breast; Banno is finished with egg. “They are still popular. And of course, dal, which we call maa ki dal, is called marsh there (Frontier). It is black urad that has become popular with tomato, ghee and butter.”

Kali dal is the longest cooked dal in the world. The combination of whole black lentils (urad dal), tomatoes, ginger and garlic — is cooked and simmered over the slow charcoal fire of the tandoor overnight for 18 hours straight!

There is also a distinct culture of serving North-West Frontier cuisine. “While dining, guests are encouraged to eat with their hands to experience the food with all their senses. Cutlery is not laid out on the table and is only provided on request, and heavy copper/steel crockery thalis add to the rustic charm,” says Asmita Nagpal, a food blogger in Mumbai.

restaurant City Approximate cost for 2 in Rs
Bukhara, ITC Maurya Delhi 8,000
Frontier, The Ashok Delhi 4,000
Khyber Bombay 3,000
Zaffran Bombay 2,000
Dum Pukht, ITC Maurya Delhi 8,000
Peshawri, Sonar ITC Calcutta 3,000
Kebabs and Kurries, ITC Hotel Bengaluru 4,500
Barbecue Nation Many cities 2,500
Indian accent New Delhi 6,000

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